Graffiti-Style Heart Photography Background

By Liz Masoner

Valentine's Day calls for special backgrounds. One great background for Valentine's Day photography is a graffiti-style heart. It is super simple, quick, and cheap to make this background.

Supplies Needed
* Red Cotton Fabric
* Bleach
* Water
* Spray Bottle
* Sewing Supplies for Hem or Fusible Web
* Iron

1. Hem the Fabric
Before you do anything else, hem the fabric to prevent raveling. You can do this by sewing a hem or by using fusible web to iron a hem. This is also a good time to add the hanging pocket if your background stand requires it.

2. Iron the Fabric
Iron the fabric if needed to remove wrinkles. Wrinkles can interfere with your design.

3. Mix the Bleach
In the spray bottle, mix 1/2 water and 1/2 bleach. Be careful not to spill or you risk ruining your clothes/carpet. Set the spray nozzle for about a 2" spray pattern.

4. Create the Heart
Spread the fabric out on a flat surface that will not be damaged by bleach. Due to the size requirements I suggest a garage floor or driveway. If you do not have a relatively clean area, use a sheet of painter's plastic to protect the cloth from the pavement. You can also use the plastic if you must work indoors (but you still risk spills this way). Begin spraying a heart outline on the fabric with your bleach solution. Spray lightly at first and then respray the heart until the pattern area is saturated.

5. Set the Design
Carefully move the heart indoors to the dryer. Dry on low heat.

6. Check Your Design
Once the heart is dry you will see it has faded the fabric considerably. If you want a lighter heart repeat steps 4 and 5 until the heart is the color you want.

7. Remove the Bleach
Once you have the desired color heart, wash the fabric to remove the bleach. Wash the fabric alone or with items that you do not mind being bleached!

8. Final Drying
You can now dry your fabric one last time. The background is now ready to use.

From Nikon D2X to Hasselblad H3D-39 (medium format digital)

by Ben Hattenbach

I've been shooting a D2X for a couple of years now and decided to give medium format a try. I acquired a Hasselblad H3D-39, a decision influenced in significant part by Hasselblad's new 28mm lens for which Hasselblad's software automatically corrects distortion and chromatic aberration. The H3D and the 28mm accompanied me to Death Valley this weekend and these are my initial impressions.

I am making this posting because I had a difficult time finding this sort of information on the web before making my purchase. I hope that those of you considering a jump to medium format digital find this useful. I'm a professional, but not a professional photographer. I am in no way presenting this as a comprehensive or scientific analysis, or suggesting that in the abstract one camera is better than the other?they are plainly different horses for different courses.

Ease of use: The ergonomics of the D2X are phenomenal ? it is simply not a fair fight. Many of the functions I frequently use on the D2X, which are directly accessible through buttons on the D2X body, are buried in menus in the H3D, menus that are something of a challenge to navigate. This includes white balance, ISO, and deleting recent photos. In fairness, the H3D does have a user-programmable button and I'm still becoming familiar with the camera, but I would put the D2X ahead in this category by a wide margin.

Autofocus: The H3D has only one center focus point. Focus is slow relative to the D2X and seems to require far more light. In low light where the D2X would have no problem whatsoever, the H3D often hunts without locking focus.

Display: I'm sure there is a reason for it, but the display on the digital back of the H3D is abysmal. The resolution, quite seriously, seems materially worse than that on your average $99 point-and-shoot. It is useful for displaying a histogram and that's about it. I hear that this shortcoming is shared by most medium format digital backs out there.

White balance: The D2X auto white balance rarely requires correction. The H3D does not even determine a white balance. You can dial it in when you're shooting based on your own measurement at the scene, or you can shoot a white balance card and use eyedroppers in post. This was a disappointment, but I'll live with it. At this point you may be asking yourself why anyone in their right mind would ever want an H3D. Read on.

Light meter: The H3D light meter does seem quite accurate. With my D2X I typically dial in at least a third of a stop of exposure compensation. This seems to be unnecessary as a general rule with the H3D.

Viewfinder: I never had a problem with the D2X finder. The H3D viewfinder is much larger and brighter.

Weather sealing: The H3D, unlike the D2X, is not weather sealed. I used it in 50-60 MPH winds in Death Valley this morning (so strong that it was a real challenge to remain standing) and there does not seem to be much dust on the sensor. Time will tell whether the lack of weather sealing will become an issue, but the camera certainly passed the first test.

Mirror up: The H3D has a large mirror to accompany its large sensor and large viewfinder. When the mirror goes up there is a significant kick. While I have been able to take sharp pictures handheld, the H3D is at home on a solid tripod. I use a Gitzo 1325, RRS BH-55 and RRS L-bracket. The H3D has an easily accessible mirror up button on the front of the body. The button puts the mirror up and it stays up until the button is pressed again. Thus, when bracketing, the mirror does not go up and down between exposures like on the D2X.

Lenses: Hasselblad lenses are expensive, but once you hold one you will understand why. They need to cast a far larger image on the sensor and, thus, are far larger. They are also made with impeccable workmanship. They are built like tanks and weigh approximately as much. They lack advanced features such as VR, but as mentioned, they live on tripods so this distinction is one without much of a difference.

The lenses feature a leaf shutter. Consequently, there is less shutter vibration than with a focal plane shutter. You can hardly hear the shutter open and shut. The price you pay is that the maximum shutter speed on the H3D is 1/800th. For landscapes this is a worthwhile tradeoff.

Image quality: The H3D-39 sensor is twice the size of a 35mm full-frame (e.g., Canon 5D or 1ds2) sensor and, if my math is correct, occupies about 4.5 times the real estate of the D2X sensor. It sports 39 megapixels. The RAW files are losslessly compressed to about 50MB when stored on a CF card and expand to about 80MB when downloaded to the computer. The image quality is, in a word, amazing.

The increased level of image detail was expected. The shocker was the dynamic range ? this is where the H3D really distinguishes itself. With the D2X, I frequently resorted to bracketing just about any scene with meaningful dynamic range (often 5 or 7 exposures) and then combining them using layer masks in post (I always found this to achieve much better results than HDR in CS2). With the H3D you nearly have to be taking a picture of the sun to blow highlights. In scene after scene where the D2X would have suffered from massive blown highlights, HD3 handled the capture with ease. The difference is truly dramatic, will significantly shorten my landscape workflow, and should improve the resulting images. A sample image from my trip to Death Valley may be found here: http://www.pbase.com/hattenbach/image/77570448 . With the D2X this scene would have required blending at least two bracketed exposures (one for the ground, one for the sky). This image is straight from the camera, curves and levels applied and then downsized for the web. Less than a minute of processing.

The H3D outputs true 16 bit files, supposedly leading to finer tonal gradations than the D2X. The images do seem smoother than those of the D2X. I haven't yet figured out whether this is due in part to greater bit depth.

ISO: The H3D operates between 50 and 400 ISO. I'm told that it gets noisy above 200 and that the new Phase backs are better in this regard. Having shot only landscapes at 50 and 100 so far, this hasn't been an issue for me.

Batteries: The batteries are about the same physical size as those of the D2X. I have shot thousands of photos over a period of weeks on a single D2X charge. In contrast, my H3D battery (also lithium ion) died after just over 100 shots on the first day. Having taken the advice of an excellent salesperson, I had a backup on hand. The H3D battery doubles as the grip for the camera.

Frame rate: The H3D is not your camera for auto racing or birds in flight. It shoots at a little less than one frame per second. Again, not an issue for landscape.

Software: The H3D only shoots in RAW. The H3D comes with Hsselblad's Flexcolor software. Unlike Nikon's Capture, Flexcolor is free. I actually like it. Although Phase's CaptureOne (to be used with Phase backs) seems to have a better reputation and may indeed be better, Flexcolor is perfectly adequate and relatively easy to use. The interfaces and functionality are somewhat similar to Nikon Capture 4.

Price: The H3D-39 is approximately the price of a nice new car, roughly six times the price of a D2X. There are other H3D variants with different sensors for slightly less. Don't be fooled by list prices. They are materially negotiable. In addition, Hasselblad has a number of discount programs that require you of your salesperson to jump through hoops but will save you thousands (e.g., currently you can buy a medium format Holga for about $25, turn it in with your purchase, and save $3,000). I purchased mine over the phone from Steve Hendrix at PPR Digital in Atlanta. He was fantastic. When you buy a H3D, some personalized training tends to be included and Steve has proven himself to be accessible, knowledgeable and eager to assist when needed.

Final verdict: I had plenty of advance notice that the H3D was not the most user-friendly beast. My principal objective in moving to medium format was improved image quality. Without a question, the H3D delivered in that regard. The improved resolution will make a difference for those printing large but the improved dynamic range should make a difference for everyone. While the price is high, if your time is valuable and you spend a lot of it on photography, the investment may well be worthwhile.

Aquarium Photography

By Liz Masoner

Aquariums are a popular vacation attraction for families and photographers. Unfortunately, it is also one of the attractions responsible for the most failed photographs. Aquariums are deceptively difficult areas to photograph inside. However, with a bit of knowledge and some practice, your photos of your next aquarium visit can be great!

Difficulties
Aquariums are difficult locations because of several issues.

* Water
The water surrounding your intended subject may be crystal clear to your eyes but there is still particulate matter floating in it. Also, water has a large light-bending effect and every inch you shoot through makes it more difficult for your camera to collect enough light.

* Glass/Plexiglass
When photographing fish on exhibit at an aquarium you are shooting through glass or plexiglass type material that is, at times, a full foot in thickness. While this is easy for your eye to see through, the light bending properties can make it difficult for your camera to focus properly. Also, flash reflects off of glass and leaves a nasty glare on images.

* Lighting
When you walk into an aquarium the displays all look incredibly bright to our eyes. That is because you are standing in a dimly lit room and your eyes have dilated. The exhibits themselves are not as bright as they appear to you. Also, your eyes are continuously recording light. Your camera only has a fraction of a second to collect enough light. This makes the lighting levels of the aquarium displays harder to photograph.

Overcoming Shooting Difficulties
In order to take great shots at an aquarium you must learn to overcome the innate challenges of the location. To do this we must look at each challenge individually because each challenge affects the image to different degrees at different displays.

* Water
To overcome the challenge of water is to pay attention to timing and your subject's position. Plan to take photographs when the water is at it's clearest. Just before feeding time the fish are generally excited but the water is at its clearest and free of additional fish debris. During and after feeding the water is cloudy from food particles, extra air bubbles (created from frantic feeding), and fish waste. In addition to avoiding cloudy water, plan to photograph subjects relatively close to the glass. This will minimize the amount of light refraction from the water and particulate matter.

* Glass/Plexiglass
It takes a lot of strength to hold back thousands of gallons of water and large sea creatures rubbing against the glass. In spite of the exceptionally high quality of this material, it does still scatter light to some degree. Be prepared to switch to manual focus to make adjustments to your camera's autofocus if it has trouble locking on to your subject.

Your on-camera flash is not usually helpful with glass/plexiglass either. Because the flash fires directly ahead of the camera the reflection obscures the subject you wished to capture. To avoid this glare you need to increase the angle of the flash to the glass in relation to your camera. If your camera does not have an add-on flash option you can turn your camera (and yourself) at a 45 degree or better angle to the glass before taking an image. This can mean shooting upwards at a fish or shooting from the side. There can be some distortion of your subject with shooting this way but it should help avoid flash glare. If your camera accepts an add-on flash via hot shoe mount you can use a flash with a tilt head. By tilting the head of the flash at least 45 degrees you will move the position of the glare away from your lens.

* Lighting
Because exhibits often seem very bright to our dilated eyes, it can be confusing when your camera insists it does not have enough light. If you have a camera without shutter speed and aperture control you will need to rely on manipulation of your camera preset modes to make shooting adjustments.

If your camera has the ability to control aperture and shutter speed your task will be much easier. When taking photographs in an aquarium you should use a small F-Stop setting (large aperture) to allow more light into the lens. Shutter speed will then be set based on exposure values as determined by your light meter. Keep in mind that fish are almost always in constant motion and keeping your shutter speed about 1/60th of a second is a good idea. You will also need to set your film speed to a more sensitive number. ISO 800 is generally a minimum film speed for shooting without a flash while ISO 400 is probably ok with flash.

You can also make the most of the light available in a scene by photographing fish near the tank light source. Often this light source is at the top of the tank so you have to be careful not to photography only the underside of the fish when shooting upwards.

By pulling together the techniques to compensation with water, glass/plexiglass, and lighting you can greatly improve your aquarium photographs.

Also, when taking photographs in an aquarium, you must be mindful of proper photography etiquette. Most aquariums are very photography friendly (commercial photographers be sure to check for additional restrictions) but there are a few restrictions. Some marine species are very sensitive to light. Because of this, flash is not allowed at certain exhibits. Please take the time to look for "no flash" signs at an exhibit before starting your photography. Be respectful of other guests as well. Just because you REALLY want a great photo of a stingray does not give you the right to push anyone else out of the way or take the best viewing spot at an exhibit for an hour. If you really want a lot of camera freedom, consider an aquarium photo workshop offered by the aquarium. Some aquariums also limit the size/number of bags than can be brought into the facility and some ban tripods. Be sure to check ahead of time to find out whether or not you can bring your camera bag full of equipment with you. By following the rules of the aquarium you are visiting you will help to ensure that you (and other photographers) will continue to be allowed to photograph an amazing variety of fish without ever getting wet.

Canon has sold 10 million consumer D-SLRs

Canon has announced that it has produced over 10 million consumer D-SLRs (digital single-lens-reflex) worldwide since the launch of the EOS 300D in 2003. Canon's D-SLR products have achieved consecutive no.1 rankings in GfK's consumer hitlist since 2004. Starting with the Canon EOS 300D, the market-leading spot was passed to the 350D in 2005, the EOS 400D in 2006 and the EOS 450D in 2008 (GfK WEU14 Jan~Dec for each respective year) and it is hoped the trend will continue following the recent release of the EOS 500D.

"Canon remains at the forefront of this consumer market growth with a market share of 40 per cent in Europe (GfK WEU14 Jan~Dec 2008) which we account for our commitment to consumer demand and our passion for high-quality image," said Rainer Fuehres, Head of Canon Consumer Imaging (CCI), Canon Europe. "We hope that the release of the EOS 500D will further strengthen our market position this year."

The increasing volume of consumer-orientated D-SLR models on the market has also driven an increase the volume of lens sales. Canon's EF lens portfolio is now the world's most extensive and popular range of D-SLR lenses, with over 60 models and 40 million sales worldwide.

Canon recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of Canon SLR (single lens reflex) cameras, having launched the Canon Flex in May 1959. Over 50 million Canon SLRs have been sold worldwide and Canon SLR cameras are accepted as the benchmark standard for amateur and professional photography. Read More about Canon sells 10 million Consumer DSLRs

How To Photograph Flowers - Part II

Part II - Taking Flower Photos Further

It's springtime in the Northern Hemisphere and the tulips and daffodils are poking up around our toes. The magnolias are ready to pop and the cherry blossoms aren't far behind.

No matter where in the world you live, it's time to grab your camera, don your April-showers raincoat, and get out there among the beautiful spring flowers. (Okay, if you're in the Southern Hemisphere, it won't be spring for six months. But let's not quibble.)

When we photograph a flower close up - whether growing in a garden or peeking out of a vase - we often use selective focus. In other words, we shoot with a wide aperture (low f-number) to throw the background out of focus so it doesn't distract attention from the flower. This is a common technique that usually renders the background in muted green (of other plants) or blue (of the sky).

But the background need not be confined to these muted colors. It's possible to add drama and a sense of the unexpected by inserting a different type of background into the photograph.

These graceful white lilies pop out in this photograph because of the deep red background. Are these lilies in a garden or a vase? We don't know. All we see are the flowers against the solid-colored background.

How can you produce such a solid-colored background in your flower pictures? Simple. Place a colored panel behind the flowers! A panel of photographic seamless paper. A panel of art-supply construction paper. A panel made from a sheet or pillowcase. Anything. Choose the color you like - and place it as a panel behind the flowers. Indoors, you may need some tape or thumbtacks to fasten your background to a wall. Outdoors, you may be able to prop your background up against other flowers in the garden…or you may have a friend or assistant hold it in place.

Shadows and reflections can be part of the photo. In the picture to the left, NYI Instructor Jerry Rice used glossy blue paper as the background. At first glance, you might think this is the blue of the sky. But then you see the heavy shadow of the flower. The shadow helps make this picture! It's a wonderful part of the composition. And we know that you don't see shadows like this in the sky.

What color background? You are limited only by your imagination and the availability of supplies. Our suggestion: Use a background color that contrasts with the color of the flowers. If the flower is red, don't use a red background…etc. Neutral colors like gray, black, white, and beige are good if the flower is very colorful. If the flower is a neutral color - like the white lilies, above - a more vibrant background color is usually better.

What lighting? Any light source can do. If you're outdoors, consider natural sunlight. Indoors, you'll probably use flash. Just be aware of the possibility of a hard shadow, and decide in advance if you want your picture to include that shadow, or you want it to be outside the frame.

NYI Dean Chuck DeLaney reports that in warm weather he wanders out after dark and shoots flowers using only his on-camera flash, as in this picture of June-blooming peonies. The concentrated light of his on-camera flash gives sharp definition to the flowers. Further, because it's pitch-black out, the background is usually totally dark.

Other backgrounds. Don't overlook other possible backgrounds. Perhaps you want a background that has texture, like the slate in this picture. (Hint: To bring out texture, have your lighting come from the side.)

Or you may look for an interesting locale, as in this picture - a fine example of "Flowers with…" Here we see the tulips with…a windmill. The entire image is given added impact by the red sunset sky that silhouettes the windmill and the trees. (We quibble with the composition of this picture since the top half seems unrelated to the bottom half. It's as though it were artificially added in the darkroom. In reality, it was not!) In terms of lighting, note one thing: The natural light of the sunset sky was not sufficient to properly illuminate the foreground tulips. So the photographer added light to them with a small flash, but made sure the exposure was long enough to capture the windmill and sky too.

Interesting angles. Whether you're photographing flowers indoors or "au natural," consider unusual angles. In this picture the humble spring Crocus never looked more dramatic nor loomed larger. Why? Because the photographer got down low to exaggerate the flower's height. He also came in close to make them loom large. To get down this low, all you need is to be willing to bend over or lie down. To get this close, you need a macro or close-focusing lens. If you don't have such a lens, SLR users can consider getting a set of close-up filters which attach to your lens like regular filters, but provide magnification that allows you to get very close to your subject. A set of three such filters - each offering a different degree of magnification - costs about $40. (Caution: Make sure you purchase a set that fits the diameter of your basic lenses.)

Here's another interesting angle. In this picture, instead of using a close-focusing lens, the photographer did just the opposite - he used a wide-angle lens. And he shot from up high to look down on the flowers in the foreground. From this angle with a wide-angle lens, he can capture the flowers in the foreground as well as the mountains and blue sky in the background.

Showing droplets. Here's a tip from Sharon Gumerove, NYI's Webmaster, who loves to photograph flowers: If possible, show droplets of dew on a close-up view of a flower. The dew connotes an early morning view in a quiet garden. In fact, we used to get up extra early just to capture that dew. Then Sharon told us a trick she learned a while back: She gets up late and brings along a spray bottle filled with water and creates her own "dew" any time of day! As an alternative, some photographers use drops of glycerine (bought at the local drug store) because it won't evaporate as fast.

The main idea we want to impart to you in this article is that there are lots of opportunities for you to experiment when you photograph flowers. Look for creative and unexpected approaches. For example, we've seen interesting photographs of dead flowers, dried flowers, out-of-focus flowers, even underwater flowers. Point: Let your imagination roam. Most flower pictures are mundane. Look for the unusual. Experiment!

The more you experiment, the more interesting, exciting and gratifying your flower pictures will be.

— Article reprinted with permission of New York Institute of Photography.

Insect Macro Photography

by mplonsky

I am a professor (experimental psychology, not entomology). I had started scanning images back in 1989 for incorporating into my lectures that I projected in front of the classroom. For my first camera I bought a Canon G1 in November of 2000 for family photos and to document dog behavior. I enjoyed it because it makes it easy to learn about photography quickly.

Given my background, I tend to think of the camera as a scanner that you point. If you don't get the scan correct the first time, try again (and again). Compact flash is an endless roll of film. When I first got the camera, my (then) 5 year old son came into my office one day and suggested I photograph a bug that he had his eye on and we did. It was worse than terrible by my current standards, but it did allow us to see the bug in more detail than we could in real life. That is what got me started and what I enjoy so much about macros.

They let you see what you ordinarily cannot. In search of greater magnification, I began using diopters (or closeup lenses) and even reversing a 50mm lens. Refer to my articles for more details on the equipment and techniques. Most of my bugs are photographed in the natural environment. I don't chill them, spray them, glue them, or nail them down. I also like shooting the bug on a white building (and then overexpose the background).

My goal when photographing the bug is to present it in a positive light; to show it at it's best. I especially like intimate portraits, behavior shots, and full body shots with clean and smooth and sometimes colorful backgrounds. Two years and 25,000 clicks of the shutter later, I bought a Canon G3. It gave me more zoom and 4 megapixels instead of three. It was more responsive and handled exposure better.

Then, about 5 weeks ago, I purchased a 300D and various lenses including the Canon 100mm macro. It requires a different style and manner of shooting (for example, I am more likely to use a tripod nowadays).

Overall, it has advantages and disadvantages when compared to the prosumer digicams (see Digital Prosumer Point & Shoot (P&S) vs. the Digital SLR for Macro Photography), although, I love them both.

The greater the magnification, the less the depth of field. To get around that issue a little, I have developed a technique of compositing more than one image with different planes of focus. Remark: The first four photos were taken by the Canon G1, 5th to 8th photos were taken by the Canon G3 and the last four photos were taken by the Canon 300D digital SLR camera.

Get the Most from Your Camera & Lens Collection

by GoldenHammer

Since I purchased my first Canon DSLR 400D, two lenses 17-85 and 10-22 two years ago, I made investment for two more DSLR bodies and lenses - a 5D and a 40D, three lenses 24-105/4, 16-35/2.8 II and 24/2.8.

While I am happy with the current setup, I decided to have a serious assessment how all these (3 Canon DSLR bodies and 5 lenses) can be further optimized for different circumstances and applications. Well, some configuration may look odd, but that is interesting and let me have a prospect of all possibilities.

Here comes an assessment chart. Obviously, I am not intended to have my EF lenses attached to the 400D, and the EFS lenses are not applicable for the FF 5D. Configurations are set in priority for my favorites from figures 1-7.

16-35 II 24-105 24/2.8 10-22 17-85
5D 1 2 - N.A. N.A.
40D * 3 - 5 6
400D - - 4 8 7

1. 5D & 16-35 II
Usage rate is 30%, my most favorite setup, the 5D and 16-35 II serve me most of the time for landscape and dynamic wide shots in event and low light work. See Canon EOS 5D & EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II USM - Dynamic Ultra Wide Photography.

2. 5D & 24-105
Usage rate is 20%, used for everyday work, specifically, I will add an external flash unit to this combo for wedding and other serious work. See Canon EOS 5D & EF 24-105/4L IS USM - A Magic Combo.

3. 40D & 24-105
Usage rate is 10%, this is the setup whenever I need a longer end. The 24-105 works as a 38-168 lens, I find it good for portrait and head hunting. With an close-up attachement lens, it may serve also as a combo for macro work.

4. 400D & 24/2.8
Usage rate is 40%, my surprise that it has such a high usable rate. I prefered to shoot with 5D and 40D, but after the 400D attached with a 24/2.8, I would prefer to bring this combo for quick snaps instead of a P&S camera, it is a real portable solution with fairly nice performance. See the story at Canon 400D & EF 24mm f/2.8 - Light & Compact Combo for Quick Snap.

5-6. 40D & EFS lenses
Now they serve me as backup to 5D and the EF lenses, 10-22 is very nice lens for wide end while 17-85 is good for walk around work. See Canon EOS 40D for Serious & Everyday Work.

7-8. 400D & EFS lenses
My wife find herself interested in photography, 400D and 17-85 are now here her new toy, maybe one day she would want to shoot wide with the 10-22 lens. See Canon EOS 400D Combo for Everyday Snaps.

* 40D & 16-35 II
The combo gives a focal range in 25-56 and 40D may produce some nicely cropped images that have better corners and edges result over 5D, the larger aperture at f/2.8 also makes this combo interesting. I have yet to try this configuration because I don't have a direct impression how this is to fit for specifically work. Probably I would set it for landscape, event and half-body portrait work.

What Next?
Though I don't like flash light work, an external flash unit is a must for my 5D & 24-105 combo in serious wedding events. The Speedlite 430EX II looks handy, but I prefer the 580EX II for better result in bounce instead of filled flash light.

If you have a collection of multiple camera bodies and lenses, make your own assessment!

New Canon Rebel DSLR Announced

Canon will today release details of the much rumoured replacement for the Canon 350d (or Rebel XT), to be called the 400d, or in some markets the Rebel XTi.

The new Canon 400d

Improvements to the camera include a 2.5" LCD, 10.2mp all new sensor, a sonic anti-dust system for the sensor and an improved AF, thought to be the same as the Canon 30d's. The street price will be around US$800, about $100 less than the recently released Nikon D80, and about the same price as the new Sony A1 DSLR.

All three of these entry level cameras now sport similar features with enough to differentiate each of them, so it's a great time to be looking for a camera in this range.

Canon also announced two new L-series lenses. The 70-200 f4 IS L and the 50mm f1.2 L.

Photos of the Month Best Photos Gallery

Best photos updated bi-weekly to appreciate contest winners in Photos-of-the-Year.com, please bookmark this page, enjoy the amazing photos and click the photo thumbs to access the contest galleries. You are also invited to join our Digital Photography Contest.

The open voting contest, there is no fixed judgment panel, is set to reflect honestly the marketing value both in quantity and quality aspects (favorite with most people, and thus more likely for sale).

The 12 best photos in each contest gallery will be selected, and eligible for the Photos of the Year (POTY) Contest to be held annually in Photos-of-the-Year.com.

The POTY gallery will be prepared and open for public voting early each year, the top 12 photographs will be selected as Best Photos of the Year.

Thought of the Nikon D700 FX Digital Camera

by GoldenHammer

May I say why it was not be there earlier? Is that because of technologies barrier or Nikon did not response promptly to the market? And may I say that is the camera I have been waiting for long? That is built with a balanced set of state-of-the-art technologies and convenience design in mind, a merge of D300 body and D3 features, that really looks perfect to me.

I have been busy shooting with my Canon system (Get the Most from Your Camera & Lens Collection) in the past year and my Nikkor lenses collection (Nikon Nikkor Lens Mini-Review) were kept in an electronic dry box with humidity control for a while, now I would expect that is going to change because of the D700, my Nikkor will work in their full wide capabilities (though I already have a DX lens Fisheye-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED) that is important to me as I do most in wide and ultra wide shots.

In additional to my existing Nikkor primes, I will be interested in adding a general-purpose zoom lens with the D700 into my Nikon collections, this is a native move to preserve my previous investment. The D700 calibration features for separate lens settings and high-iso capabilities means additional convenience and productivities.

I would hope the D700 comes with 16M pixels size, but I realized that Nikon would probably want to keep that cost down with an optimized 12M quality output instead of chasing up the pixel count war.

Oops … I still don't like the D700 body with rubber covers for terminals at the right side, that is simply not in a fashionable design. The classic covers on my D1x may easy to miss, but that makes the Nikon appears more smart and professional.

Wait … what about my Canon system? Don't get me wrong, I am not royal user to any system, I like and enjoy both systems. And what about my Canon 5D (Canon EOS 5D - Dark Angel in Digital Photography) and 40D (Canon EOS 40D for Serious & Everyday Work) and maybe Canon is about to release its replacement 5D Mark II or whatever new model? Who knows?! My 5D works perfectly well, however, it is not very likely I would upgrade for a 5D Mark II, I would prefer the D700 FX, you know why already …..

D3 vs D700

I wonder why people would ask "Should I get a D3 or D700, please help…", this is simple to me, I skipped D3 and go for a 5D …. believe me, Nikon is not in fool, the D700 is a class of its own, and you can have many reasons want a D700 instead of D3. If you asked that question, that only means not only you didn't understand what the difference between these two cameras, but also didn't realize what you really want … huh?

D700 vs D300

Obviously, they are at a very clear different position. Some people originally acquired the D3 eventually switched to D300 because of the crop factor, they work mostly at the tele end, in this case the FF D3 is a much expensive camera not best fit their requirement.

Similarly, it is not very likely D300 users would switch to D700. In fact, D300 is a value camera at attractive price level, D700 at US$3000 still looks pricy.

D700 vs 5D

Ok, you may complain that they should not be compared because they are for different applications, or they are targeted for different users, you may be right but I think the D700 is setting closest to the segment where 5D stayed nowadays.

If I have the D700 on hands right now, how would it affect my usage rate to the 5D? My initial thought is the D700 as the main unit in serious events, the 5D as backup. That is easy because the D700's calibration features and better AF, the Nikon system also produces better output in white balance control. All these make the D700 more suitable for professional work - that means additional productivity.

While D700 would be good for professional/ dynamic work, I would expect my 5D goes to landscape work for maximum static image quality - in terms of technical sharpness & details. In fact, 5D looks dumb and is relatively less convenience … but as a mind set of an artist and enthusiast - shoot for fun and inspiration instead of money, I would sometimes prefer to shoot 5D with a manual focus lens instead of a AF-Machine-Gun camera… :P

How about 5D Mark II?

I am not surprised if Canon release a 5D successor/ new camera responses to the D700, but what would be the focus of interest? The next successful camera from canon must be outstanding enough and can sit at a class of its own, so what about these?

1. Price - Attractive enough?
2. Pixels Count - 16MP?
3. Features - Surprise & break-through?

Nikon D700 Key Features (* Different to D3)

- 12.1 megapixel full-frame sensor (8.45µm pixel pitch)
- ISO 200 - 6400 (with boost up to ISO 25600 and down to ISO 100)
- Also supports DX lenses, viewfinder automatically masks (5.1 megapixels with DX lens)
- 14-bit A/D conversion, 12 channel readout
- Same ultra-fast startup and shutter lag as D3
- Nikon EXPEED image processor (Capture NX processing and NR algorithms, lower power)
- Multi-CAM3500FX Auto Focus sensor (51-point, 15 cross-type, more vertical coverage)
- Auto-focus tracking by color (using information from 1005-pixel AE sensor)
- Auto-focus calibration (fine-tuning), fixed body or up to 20 separate lens settings
- Scene Recognition System (uses AE sensor, AF sensor)
- Picture Control image parameter presets
- 3.0" 922,000 pixel LCD monitor
- Live View with either phase detect (mirror up/down) or contrast detect Auto Focus
- Virtual horizon indicates if camera is level (like an aircraft cockpit display)
- HDMI HD video output
- 'Active D-Lighting' (adjusts metering as well as applying D-Lighting curve)
- Detailed 'Control Panel' type display on LCD monitor, changes color in darkness
- Magnesium alloy body with connections and buttons sealed against moisture
- 95% coverage, 0.72x magnification viewfinder *
- Improved Info display on main screen *
- Image Sensor Cleaning (vibration) *
- 5 frames per second continuous with auto-focus tracking*
- New Kevlar / carbon fibre composite shutter with 150,000 exposure durability *
- UDMA compatible single CF card slot *
- Optional MB-D10 Battery Pack (same as D300), increases burst rate to 8 fps *